When one thinks of ancient Myanmar pagodas, Bagan is usually the first place that comes to mind. But in a lesser known city, 50 miles from Magway on the west bank of the Ayeyarwaddy River near the Chin State hills, one finds an abundance not only of pagodas but also of ancient monasteries.
Founded in 556 Myanmar era, the city of
Salin was first ruled by monarchs and then by appointed dukes. Today,
Salin is dotted with ancient Buddhist monasteries and pagodas—a legacy
of its rich and famous residents, who donated these buildings for
posterity over the years. Being situated on the eastern side of the Chin
hills, Salin was a popular place to exchange goods from the hilly
regions and the plains. And Wet The Lake, more than a thousand acres
wide and dressed in carpets of lotus paddies, was another attraction for
local nobility. It is at the southeast end of the lake (which is now a
designated bird sanctuary), that one finds the most celebrated of
Salin’s monasteries.
There are few relics to compare with the
145-year-old Salay Yoke Sone. Built in 1230 Myanmar era, this monastery
is a towering 100 feet high, 178 feet long and 75 feet wide, featuring
245 pillars. The handiwork and wood sculpturing of the main hall are the
most magnificent of the local monasteries. Renovated in 2003 by the
government, Yoke Sone is the legacy of Daw Pu, born of noble stock. (Her
sister, Daw Yu, donated another monastery of similar bearing, but it
was destroyed during World War II.)
At the entrance to Salin from Magway
lies another cultural treasure. U Ottama monastery was built by noblemen
in 1181 Myanmar era. Also known as Koe Saung monastery, it contained
nine apartments and a tunnel underneath. Today, the outside entrances
are closed. “But during the colonial era, revolutionary soldiers took
refuge there, so it was called U Ottama Fort. Under an arrangement with
the government, it was renovated in 2004,” says U Thama monastery’s
presiding monk, Sayadaw.
The monastery has also received generous
donations from U Paw (who received a religious title designation for
his long history of donations), his son and relatives, who constructed
two more buildings to add to the first nine.
“Some foreigners have visited this town
via Bagan. They visited Yokson Monastery, Watthe Lake and ancient
pagodas along Hsinphyukyun Road,” says local artist U Sein Win Aung.
Bagan-NyaungU can be reached via Salin,
Hsinphyukyun and Seikphyu. Through Seikphyu, one can also reach Chin
State’s Natma Mountain or Pontaung Ponnya, where human primate fossils
were discovered.
source: Eleven Myanmar
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